12 April 2023 - Kremik

Chris went for a run along the seafront, towards Trogir, which he said was delightful. There were the typical pavement cafes, with old men, sitting having their coffee and chatting, in the morning sun.


Steve and I had a less exciting trip to the supermarket, to refresh the food supplies, but, it has to be done. At least, in the morning, they had a better selection of fresh produce. Kastela seems to be very much a dormitory town for Split, other than having this medium sized, by Croatian standards, marina. However, the local story is about the two castles in this bay: Dobila’s castle, built in 1487, by the Vitturi family, and Miljenko’s castle. Dobrila and Miljenko fell in love, despite the enmity of their families. When their parents found out, Miljenko was sent away to Venice by his father, but he returned when he learned that Dobrila’s father had arranged her marriage to an old nobleman, to prevent the marriage. Dobrila was then sent to the convent in Trogir and Miljenko was exiled to a monastery. Dobrila escaped the convent and went to join Miljenko. Eventually the parents allowed the young couple to marry, but, after the wedding feast, Dobrila’s father killed Miljenko and Dobrila died shortly after, from grief. The lovers are allegedly buried together in the chapel near Miljenko’s castle.

The Simnel Cake by the time of Chris' departure.....

As soon as Chris was away in his taxi to the airport, Steve and I made our way out of the harbour, heading back to Kremik. Today the weather would be fine, with little wind, but during the night and tomorrow, there will be strong gales, so we have to be in somewhere safe. The first part of the journey was fairly uneventful, just dodging the odd other yachts, one of which was making some very strange manoeuvres, as if a four year old was on the helm, so it was a relief to get past that one. As we rounded the corner of the mainland coast, we started to see small naval vessels and a rib, from one of them, buzzing about. As we got closer, the rib came up to us and the two very nice young navy guys asked to us to hug the coast and be no more than three miles off, because of the naval exercises taking place. We don’t know what the naval vessels were, being smaller than frigates, and highly agile, but we estimated there were five or six of them, possibly more. The big booms we heard must have been live fire. Anyway, we went inside the rocks and islands, keeping well out of their way. It amused us than just before the turning into the bay of Kremik, there is a prohibited zone half a mile out from the coast, in the sea, that the forces also use, but three charter boats had gone through it. It makes you wonder whether their skippers can’t or don’t look at the chart, when they do their passage planning.

It was a glorious, still evening, to enjoy an excellent sunset. The ambient temperature is slowly and gradually increasing, but it plummets when the sun goes down. The minimum night time temperature now hovers around double figures, so still cold, but much more comfortable than it freezing, two weeks ago.

Miles today         27

Miles in 2023    142

Tricia (& Steve)

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