18 May 2023 - Prcanj

Our target destination today was Perast. It’s a town on the opposite side of the bay from our mooring. Getting to their involved two bus rides. We’d heard that the first bus, from outside the marina, was once an hour, on the half an hour, but it’s often late, because of the traffic. As we exited the marina, we asked some workmen where the bus stop was. “There isn’t one”, they said, we just had to flag down the bus when it appears, and so we did.

On the second bus it was surprise to see children going home from school, at about 11.00am. Apparently they start school about 7.00 in the morning and usually finish 12.00-2.00pm, but one day a week earlier.

Looking like a chunk of Venice that has floated down the Adriatic and anchored itself onto the Bay of Kotor, Perast hums with melancholy memories of the days when it was rich and powerful. Despite having only one main street, this tiny town boasts 16 churches and 17 formerly grand palazzi. While some are just enigmatic ruins sprouting bougainvillea and wild fig, others are caught up in the whirlwind of renovation that has hit the town. The town slopes down from the highway to a narrow waterfront road (Obala Marka Martinovića) that runs along its length. At its heart is St Nicholas’ Church, set on a small square lined with date palms and the bronze busts of famous citizens. It has all been beautifully finished and the feel of the place is very relaxed, upmarket style.

Perast’s most famous landmarks aren’t on land at all: two peculiarly picturesque islands with equally peculiar histories.

Gospa od Škrpjelal Island was artificially created (on 22 July 1452, to be precise) around a rock where an image of the Madonna was found; every year on that same day, the locals row over with stones to continue the task. We took one of the boats that line up along the Perast waterfront. The magnificent church at its centre was erected in 1630 and has sumptuous Venetian paintings, hundreds of silver votive tablets and a small museum. The most unusual – and famous – exhibit is an embroidered icon of the Madonna and Child partly made with the hair of its maker.

Sveti Djordje Island (St George’s Island) rises from a natural reef, and is the smaller of Perast’s two islands. It houses a Benedictine monastery shaded by cypresses and a large cemetery, earning it the local nickname ‘Island of the Dead’. Legend has it that the island is cursed...but it looks pretty heavenly to us. The island can only be admired from afar; visitors aren’t encouraged.

It was, for once a dry morning and the sun came out, and, fortunately, we were at the covered bus shelter by the time the next rain shower hit. In between buses, we visited the outdoor fruit and veg market in Kotor again, to buy more of the top notch cured meats and cheeses, along with jars of nuts preserved in honey.

Miles today            0

Miles in 2023     450

Tricia (& Steve)